GOO-zeh

BJCP (and BA) style guidelines: Gose

source

I admit it is not easy to create a style guideline for an historic style if the only authentic commercial example is not shipped to the US.

Here in Leipzig i can buy a 0,5 liter bottle of Ritterguts-gose in many groceries for 1,20€ or I can get the draft version in many pubs. I am well adapted to this beer as it is one of my basics and I drank the Gose from Bayerischer Bahnhof many times as well.

The latter is in my (and not only in my) opinion a well made beer and there is good reason to call it a gose but after studying pretty much of the historic and contemporary literature there is also good reason to call it an intermediate between bavarian Hefeweizen, belgian Wit and leipziger Gose.

In other words: You should not create a style guideline based solely on it.

When I read the guideline thats what i think has happened.

Another difficulty is to write a style guideline on a historic german style when there is no reliable literature even in german. Thats why I try to make some of the original sources accessible.

"Light sourness, slightly sharp"

"Moderate to restrained but noticeable sourness, like a squeeze of lemon in iced tea."

"The acidity should be balanced, not forward."

Try the Rittergutsgose and you know thats false:

it is on the maximum side of sourness slightly under Kindl berliner Weisse (hard to beat) or the mores sour lambics.

"The salt may be perceived as a very light, clean sea breeze character or just a general freshness, if noticeable at all."

"Light to moderate salt character, up to the threshold of taste; the salt should be noticeable (particularly in the initial taste) but not taste overtly salty"

not the whole story as the salt can be very overtly.

Coriander is also understated, as it can be very flashy, like a dry hopped aroma.

"Historical versions may have been more sour than modern examples due to spontaneous fermentation, and may be blended with syrups as is done with Berliner Weisse."

sweetening with sirups is a very modern thing (even with Berliner Weisse) - what is needed is an adapted palate.

"Haziness similar to a Weissbier."

Draft version is always clear, and there is no reason for shaking up the sediments of a Bottle as well. Historic images show clear beer.

The BA guidelines have an additional defect:

"They typically contain malted barley and unmalted wheat, with some traditional varieties containing oats."

There is no source for unmalted grain neither Oats. Just malted Wheat.

keep it sour!

composition of different german beers 1885

Want some numbers?

In the Meyers Konversationslexikon form 1885 there is a table in the entry on "Bier":

Zusammensetzung verschiedener Biere

source

abv, fg, og and apparent attenuation are estimated from the data, if you know how to calculate them more accurately please comment.

I hope these numbers are more reliable than the numbers in some other publications of the time which sometimes sound like "I bought some bottles and analyzed them, next time I should try to get fresh ones".
I like the wide range in Attenuation: in Munich you could get attenuations ranging  from 52 to 70%.
Sadly there is no data on Gose, at least some Berliner Weiße.



königliches Hofbräuhaus: Bockbier, Sommerbier, Weißbier, Weißes Bockbier (obergäriges Weizenbier)
Spatenbräu: Bock
Paulaner: Salvator
Löwenbräu: Winterbier
Weihenstephan: Export
Erlanger: von Niklas, von Scheele
Nürnberger: von Robby
Einbecker: Bockbier, Lagerbier
Dortmunder: Lagerbier, Aktienbier
Berliner: Patzenhofer, böhmisch Brauhaus, Schultheiß, Moabit, Tivoli
Dresdener Waldschlösschen: dunkles, lichtes, böhmisch, Export
Kulmbacher Export, dunkles, lichtes, Bockbier
Koburger
Schwechater: Lagerbier, Märzenbier, Exportbier
Pilsener bürgerl, Brauhaus: Lagerbier, Exportbier
Londoner: Barclay u, Perkins Porter
London Porter
Burton Ale
Scotch Ale
Brüsseler Lambik
Danziger Jopenbier
Braunschweiger Mumme
Bremer Seefahrtsbier
Potsdamer Weise, Stangen
Berliner Weiße, Export, Josty, Werdersches

Leipziger Braunbier "Rastrum"

1. Mashtun

2. Lautertun

3. "Schupe" scoop made of copper

4.  "Meuschkrükke" also used for agitating the malt

5. "Meuschholz" mashpaddle

6. "Meuschrechen"

7. brewing kettle made from copper on the Stove

‪Johann Samuel Hallen‬s:‪ Werkstäte der heutigen Künste‬ volume 6, 1779

Gose was only the "other" beer in Leipzig as the original local brew for centuries was "Rastrum". Rastrum is an old word for a rake and there are different theories as why it was called so. I see no importance in that question as every town had a crude name for its beer.

What is of more relevance is the quality of the beer.
Most authors agree that Rastrum was brown to dark brown, sweet, cloudy and tended to go sour or even stinky fast. It is just one version of the omnipresent Braunbier (brown beer).
Of cause it was top fermenting and it was fermented in wooden vessels that could stand in a cellar or over the ground without any cooling even in the summer.

In the book "Die Kunst des Bierbrauens" (the art of brewing beer) published 1771 in Dresden, Johann Christian Simon explains how to make better beer.
He explicitly refers to the lame leipziger "Rastrum" which should be improved.

he counts 6 reasons for differences between the local beers:

1. climatic differences
2. location of the brewery
3. differences in season and weather
4. different materials used in brewing
5. differences in water
6. different procedures in malting, brewing and fermenting.

He does not know that there are different yeast strains, as he thinks of fermentation as a chemical process. Nevertheless he knows to point out what can cause spoilage and how to keep the wooden vessels and apparatuses clean. He also knows the word "Hefe" and about its importance for fermentation but not about its nature and breeding characteristics.

He advises to bring the wort to a temperature of 25°C to 35°C depending on the ambient temperature.
He also knows that too much or too little yeast is bad.
He knows that top-cropped yeast  ("Spundhefen") is the best yeast. (189)
He gives the valuable advice to try the yeast with a small portion of wort before pitching it into the full batch, instead of just checking its smell.(192)
Even his hints for yeast-storage seem acceptable (put them in a stone-bottle, close it with tar-pitch and bury it in the ground at a shady place or plunge it in a cool well) (193).
But what if we have to get fresh yeast? Wheat flour, hops, egg white, honey or sugar? Porridge, wine, juice of sweet fruits, sourdough or rye flour?
There might be a reason for his belief that after every fermentation the brew will go sour - there is only the option to slow that process down.
He knows how to keep beer unspoiled is to make the barrels tight by pitching them and by storing them in fresh cellars or ice-caverns.

He also says that bottled beer is three times stronger and better in its spirit (carbonation) than beer that has fermented at the air. (205-6).

He also describes how to produce Ice-Bock in order make a strong and durable beer (210)



Düsseldorfer Alt might be the one beer of our time that comes closest to the old Braunbier.

some hints how a leipziger Rastrum might have been:

• color: brown to dark brown
• sweet, rel. low in alcohol
• can be well hopped (esp. in the summer)
• funky fermentation or sour (a good one was not too sour or funky)
• Fermented in Wood, conditioned in pitched wood or bottles. 
• can be cloudy or clear (a good one was clear)
• Yeast can be everything from wild yeast, bakers yeast or german ale yeast.
• spices  and salt are possible, maces, nutmeg, cloves, juniper and citrus zest were quite common

History of Schwarzbier III

History of Schwarzbier I, History of Schwarzbier II cont.

In the GDR beer production was standardized.

Doppelcaramel, Schwarzbier and Porter had to comply with the following specifications.

We can see from those values: Schwarzbier was on the sweeter side of todays style but there is some continuity noticeable.

In the early 90s Köstritzer Schwarzbier had 3,5% vol (abv). The brewery was sold to Bitburger Holding (today 3rd largest german brewing company).

early post-GDR Köstritzer Schwarzbier: 3,5% vol 

Until then Schwarzbier made up only 7% of the production volume of the brewery. In 1993 they relaunched Schwarzbier as their primary product with a new branding. This is when todays "style" was created. Alcohol went up to 4,8%vol (11,4°P). Sweetness and probably flavor went further down. In short: Schwarzbier was "pilsnerized" to meet the german pilsner adapted palate. 

The style as it is known today has a fine tradition of almost 21 years!

History of Schwarzbier II

 History of Schwarzbier I cont.

The "Fürstliche Brauerei Köstritz"  (princely brewery Köstritz) was the first to produce a beer under the name "Schwarzbier" but it was not as unique as it seems.

Hollack (Dresden) offered "Deutscher Porter" as "Gesundheitsbier" (source)

Schwarzbier shared nearly every quality with the beers named "Deutscher Porter" (german porter) except the name. 

Deutscher Porter was an english inspired beer of cause: The high original gravity as well as the black color facilitated by black malt or caramel color.

But like Schwarzbier it was early on advertised as a healthy beer. The less alcohol and the more residual extract the better.

Schwarzbier was just another name for german porter. The owner of the brewery was an aristocratical manorial lord, loyal to the Reich and the Reichskanzler.

The coat of arms of the principality "Reuß" was printed on every label.

They tried to establish a precious and royal image in order to find their way into the parlors of the upper class .

Iron Schwarzbier from Oettler Zeitz

Under such self-complacent and probably nationalistic circumstances it's no wonder that they preferred to sell a new beer under a german name. Schwarzbier fits better into such a traditional branding than "Deutscher Porter".

Ärztlich empfohlen (recommended by physicians) source 

 The name "Schwarzbier" was copied by other breweries in the region around Köstritz like in Tauchlitz (sighting distance from Köstritz), Gera and Zeitz.

Schwarzbier from Gera, design inspired by Köstritzer

In this time of upcoming anti-alcoholism many breweries offered similar brews. "Eisenbier" (iron beer), "Caramel Bier", "Extraktbier", "Kraft Bier" (tonic/strength beer) and so on. All had in common relatively low alcohol and high residual extract. Mostly dark to black but there was also pale wheat based beers.

Caramel-Bier, Naumann Brewery Leipzig, for Women and Children

One more point to make the connection between porter or Schwarzbier and healthiness:

Around 1900 the by far most important competitor of beer was coffee. It was perceived as nourishing, vitalizing and healthful. It was black.

Why should coffee be nourishing? Because it is black. Like coal.

It is carbonized and therefore it contains carbon which is combusted in the body! Besides it detoxicates the body like activated charcoal!

The "style" separated into "Deutscher Porter", "Doppelcaramell" and "Schwarzbier" all three were produced almost exclusively in the GDR. There was also "Malzbier" in western Germany.

tbc.

Kufenbier, Erntebier, Märzbier

"Bier-Brauer" Weigel (1698) source

Reading old texts about brewing in northern germany one stumbles upon beers called "Märzbier", "Kufenbier", "Erntebier", "Sommerbier" or "obergäriges Lagerbier".

"Märzbier" (march beer): is brewed in march when the temperatures allow to brew a clean and durable top fermenting beer that keeps for months.

"Kufenbier": the beer was lagered in large wooden barrels called "Kufen".

"Erntebier" (harvest beer) and "Sommerbier" (summer beer): Summer and harvest time are busy and bad time for brewing if you have no efficient cooling device and cool fermentation cellar so you brew a strong and durable beer in spring and serve it in the summer or at harvest time.

"Erntebier" can also be a lower alcohol beer brewed fresh during the harvest time (for consumption at work).

"Erntebier" was also a name for the celebration when harvesting was finished.

All those terms describe top fermenting but lagered beers ("obergärige Lagerbiere").

It's a stronger version of an ordinary "braunbier".

"double the amount of malt  and triple the amount of hops". Braunbier with 1- 2 %vol. was made for prompt consumption. 

Knaus (1575) calls "Merze Bier" from Berlin and Magdeburg as a superior brew compared with the beers brewed in summer. During the hot season they had problems with chilling, fermentation temperatures, and cleanliness.

The Köstritzer "doppelbier" (before it was called english) can be assumed to be a "Obergäriges Lagerbier". If you want a great description how to brew it read Munz (1840) "Das Bierbrauen in allen seinen Zweigen".

But remember this type of beer is all about the process of lagering, it's no recipe. Every beer can potentially be a "lager beer" if it keeps its qualities (or improve) over a few months at cellar temps. On the other hand not every "Doppelbier" is also lagered.

Characteristics:

• top fermenting
• stronger in alcohol (5%+?)
• high bitterness
• amber to brown in color
• continental Hops
• stored at cellar temps for at least 8 weeks.

Eventualities:

• relatively cold and slow fermentation (more neutral flavor)
• Wheatmalt (Märzen-weisse), or other cereals or refined beet sugar or honey (farmhouse Erntebier...)
• lagering characteristics (aged flavors, low FG, wood aged, sour notes)
• brettanomyces
• spices
• smoke
• dry hopping
• pitched barrel

For commercial brews that go into the right direction I would try something like Uerige Sticke and Pinkus Alt.

Gose and coriander

Leipziger Gose is a spiced and soured wheat beer.

Gose brewery in Döllnitz around 1860 (source) ... today

The two locally produced ones contain coriander.
Which is supposedly thrown in the brewcettle at flameout. 

But why, since when and where did the use coriander or other spices?

lets try to sum up some facts:

1. There is no data about coriander in the "Goslarer Gose"

2. According to Heinrich Steckhan in the 19th century they did use wormwood and cinnamon (they infused a bag containing the spices with the still hot? wort to make their premium-style Gose "Frehmtenbestekrug")
source

3. Hermbstädt (1826) does not mention any spices at all. (Goslarsche and Sandersleber Gose)
source

4. Zimmermann (1842) writes about coriander as a late edition for "Weizenlagerbier" (with cloves and cinnamon), for Burton ale (with grains of paradise), for "Weißes Bitterbier" (white bitter beer) a pale top fermenting beer made from all barley in bavaria and for bock.
source

5. Armann (1859) mentions coriander besides cinnamon and cloves as an addition (during fermentation) for "Weizenlagerbier" (wheat lager beer)which he distinguishes from Gose and Broihan.

source

6. Leuchs (1867) describes coriander as a valued beer-spice, especially for "Bock".
source

7. According to Adolf Goedecke (2005) owner of the Döllnitz manor, the original recipe contains different spices of which coriander is only one. The Goedecke-recipe is only one of probably dozens of differing recipes brewed once in and around Leipzig, but it was selling well. It was possibly created by Phillip Ledermann who came to Döllnitz from Goslar in 1823.
source